Lena de Vries is een ervaren tuinarchitect met passie voor duurzaam groenontwerp.
Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and travelers alike celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
In a recent announcement, UNESCO recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network β placing it on a exclusive list of global cities and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it becomes part of a global network of more than four hundred metropolises across over 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The honor "demonstrates its centuries-old food heritage and dynamic food ecosystem," as noted by a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city β following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 β to secure a position in this coveted list of 70 global destinations around the world.
The recognition for this venerable city arrives as hardly a shock to its residents or avid food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, lively, and diverse city β the administrative center of India's biggest state β is now in the limelight for what has consistently defined its heart: an unparalleled love for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing discussion from morning until going to bed in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
The City of the Nawabs β as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers β is noted for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, perfected, and taken to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of culinary innovations, blending Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. The story goes that the mutton galouti was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with a flour paste.
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani β the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates local ingredients but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat β zesty fried snacks.
Nearly on many street corners, there are little shops and kiosks β lesser-known delights that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, presented in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
The city also boasts special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and demanding. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of however note that their children are reluctant to master the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history β influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will encourage more people globally to discover these stories and visit the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
Lena de Vries is een ervaren tuinarchitect met passie voor duurzaam groenontwerp.